Sumba is an island in the Lesser Sunda, which lies between Sumbawa and Timor island, in the south of Flores. In the last decade, the island has become famous because of its uniqueness and well-preserved culture, beautiful landscape, and undiscovered stories. Every year (except during covid-19), more visitors come to the island, also for birdwatchers and bird photographers like me. I’ve visited Sumba many times, after my first visit in 2017. As a birding guide of course. Matalawa National Park as the main bird site on the island is the best birding location in the Lesser Sunda (in my opinion). I still want to visit Sumba as often as possible. Here I list down my favorite birding sites in Sumba.
Yumbu Grassland, Waingapu
Yumbu is a huge grassland on both sides of Waingapu – Melolo highway. Located 15 km east of the town, and need 20-30 minutes by car or motorbike. Yumbu is the most accessible location to see the rarest species in Sumba, Sumba Buttonquail (Turnix everetti). During the dry season, people burn the grassland to get new grasses in the next rainy season for their livestock. A little part of the land that was not burned, will become shelters for Sumba Buttonquail. Here we can try our luck to see the bird by walking or waiting around the field. The burned area will become a potential hunting territory for Tyto alba-sumbaensis. Quite easy to find them here during the daytime, perched on the lower branches, sometimes fly over the field. Other species can be easily found along the stream. Shady trees provide a nice place for birds to avoid scorching, especially during the dry season. 200m to the shore, there is a thick mangrove forest which is also a potential birding site to see shorebirds and waterbirds.
Minggitimbi Lake and Wetland
Moving forward to the east about 12 km from Yumbu Grassland, there is a lake and a swamp which is the potential location to see waterbirds. The site is Minggitimbi Lake. Lies on the right side of Waingapu – Melolo highway, a few meters from the Palakahembi local market. My first visit to this place was in February 2019. At the first and short visit (1 h), I recorded 22 species in the area. Compared to my very short period of visit, I estimate the real number of species in the area is much – much larger than I booked.
Billa Forest, Matalawa NP
For me, this is a paradise. Well-preserved forest, far away from the town, no air and noise pollution at all, the perfect place to escape. Located in the southern of East Sumba, at 300 – 400masl, not easy to reach the area. We should drive 100km from Waingapu and need 3 – 4 hours of travel time. Pass the Trans-Sumba highway to the west for 45 km then turn left at Praipaha. The next 55km is on the bumpy road. This road is even worst after 30km, at the Tarimbang – Tabundung intersection. We will pass a rocky road with quite bad conditions until reach the Tabundung district. There is the gate to the Billa forest.
Billa is a narrow valley that stretches 3 km long, surrounded by gently sloping hills on both sides. The ridges and slopes are filled with thick and towering trees, where so many important species feeding and nesting. Many species like Sumba Hornbill (Rhyticeros everetti), Sumba Green Pigeon (Treron teysmannii), Red-naped Fruit-dove (Ptilinopus dohertyi), Marigold lorikeet (Trichoglossus capistratus), Citron-crested Cockatoo (Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata), and Pigeons, share trees and branches for perching. On the lower trees and shrubs, Sumba Myzomela (Myzomela dammermani) and Apricot-breasted sunbird (Cinnyris buettikoferi) are some of the endemic species that are easy to find. Two endemic nocturnal species; Little Sumba hawk-owl / Little Sumba Boobook (Ninox sumbaensis) and Sumba boobook (Ninox rudolfi) occupy the same site near the spring. During my visits before, the two Boobooks are always there. Billa is the best birdwatching site I’ve visited, and also a great place for bird photography. For your best birding experience here, you should stay at least one night. There is a camping ground in Billa forest or you can stay overnight at the National Park ranger office.
Forest ‘KM 51’ Lewa
In many trip reports of birding in Sumba, the place called ‘km 51 Lewa’ is always noticed. The ’51km’ is the distance from Waingapu to the place. The site is highly recommended because it’s easy to access and the species density is very high. You just stop at 9 km west of Lewa (Trans-Sumba Highway), and then birding can be done in the forest along the roadside.
The site is a part of Matalawa National Park. There is a ranger shelter, where we can walk into the forest about 20-50m. At every visit, I never missed stopping at the site. Here is the best place to meet Sumba Flycatcher (Ficedula harterti). Both endemic nocturnals (Sumba Boobook and Sumba Hawk-owl) are the highlights of the site.
Tanadaru
Tanadaru is the biggest section of Matalawa NP. Lies 11km along both sides of the Trans-Sumba Highway before Waibakul. All the island endemics were recorded in the area. The area is a combination of grasslands, homogeneous forests, and rainforests. If we travel from the east, we will meet a vast expanse of the savanna. This is a good and popular habitat for Sumba Buttonquail. Even though fires sometimes destroy these grasslands, here is still better than the other grasslands outside the National Park.
According to my records, Sumba Buttonquail is always shown at this location. Of course, a hard try is still needed. Two species that are easy to find here are Sumba Myzomela and Sumba Hornbill. The population of Sumba Green Pigeon here is abundant. In 2019, I encountered more than 20 individuals perched on the low branches.
I put Tanadaru as one of my favorite birding sites not only because of its species density but also because it’s close to Waikabubak; where you can stay overnight at one of the hotels or guesthouses. Also, the town provides good restaurants, after adventurous days in Sumba. Here in Waikabubak, we can also visit one of the traditional villages around the town. The easiest one is Prai Ijing traditional village. They said, that without visiting a traditional village in Sumba, your visit is never counted. If you are interested in visiting Sumba for birding or a combination trip Birding and Etnotour, or even any other areas throughout Indonesia, please drop me your message.
Email: rimbaranaka@gmail.com / WhatsApp: +6282340865422
