I visited Sulawesi from July 29 to August 2, 2022, for a very short and rushed visit. Initially, I had planned to visit the Southeast Moluccas arc, but due to time constraints, I changed my plan just two weeks before my departure. After spending two days birding in Bali, I flew to Makassar in South Sulawesi. I arrived before noon and hired a car with a driver to visit Bantimurung National Park in Maros, which is located 24km away from Hasanudin Airport. I only had about two hours to explore the Bantimurung waterfall, but I enjoyed the peaceful afternoon around the park and the waterfall. The Black-ringed White-eye was my primary target here, but I also spotted many other species, including the Black sunbird, White-faced Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Hornbill ssp. sanfordi, Sulphur-bellied Whistler, Bay Coucal, and caught a quick glimpse of the Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher (which shouldn’t count).
The following day, I flew to Manado, the northern part of Sulawesi, with Tangkoko Nature Reserve as my main destination. Esli, a birding guide in Batuputih, picked me up at Sam Ratulangi Airport in Manado. It was a sunny and pleasant afternoon after heavy morning rain. We drove to Bitung and then to Batuputih. At the Batuputih junction, we made a brief stop to see the Sulawesi Hawk-eagle. We also saw the Black-billed Koel, Silver Tip Imperial Pigeon, and a large group of Green Imperial Pigeon (rufous-naped). A few hundred meters away, we stopped to find and easily photograph the Sulawesi Scops-owl.
I spent two nights at Tangkoko Ranger Homestay in Batu Putih, where I could directly access the Tangkoko Reserve from the homestay’s front door. As I mentioned before, this was a rushed trip, and I only had a single day to explore the reserve. Despite the lack of time, the trip ran smoothly. I enjoyed walking through the lowland tropical forest of Tangkoko, as it has been one of my favorite bucket-list destinations for many years. At the end of the day, I still found myself cursing my unprepared plan. I should have stayed longer here! After a long trip from Flores, having only a single day here sounds like a foolish plan.
Tangkoko Reserve is one of the most visited reserves in Sulawesi, mainly because visitors come to see the smallest primate on Earth, the Tarsier. In North Sulawesi, the species found here is Gursky’s spectral tarsier (Tarsius spectrumgurskyae). The Tangkoko trail is easily accessible, and during my visit, I encountered many groups with young children and even babies. So, if you plan to come to Sulawesi for birding, don’t hesitate to bring your whole family along.
Like many other birders, my main targets in Tangkoko were the three endemic Kingfishers (Lilac-cheeked, Green-backed, and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher), Knobbed Hornbill, Sulawesi Babbler, Purple-winged Roller, and Ashy Woodpecker. We managed to see and photograph all of these targets, along with some incredible bonuses: Gursky’s Spectral Tarsier (my favorite since childhood), Celebes Crested Macaque, and a long list of species. It was a joyful day with 19 endemics in my pocket.
Rain interrupted us for 2 or 3 hours during our lunchtime, but in the afternoon, we still had a productive time spotting many other species. After dinner, I photographed a Sulawesi Black Tarantula next to the trail, and the Ruddy Kingfisher roosted nearby.
The next day, early in the morning, we left Batu Putih and drove to Tomohon in the mountains. Our targets were the Sulawesi Mayzomela and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Unfortunately, we missed the Kingfisher, but we were rewarded with many other amazing species. In Mount Mahawu, we managed to see and photograph the Sulawesi Myzomela, Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Turquoise Flycatcher, Black-crowned White-eye, and Isabelline Bush-hen.
Around midday, we drove to Tomohon. The view from Mount Mahawu was breathtaking. I thoroughly enjoyed my short visit to Mahawu and Tomohon and would love to return and spend more time there in the future. It’s one of the reasons why I should come back soon!
Pics from the trip:
